What began as an Anna-Alex ski trip to Whistler transformed into a Schaller-Scott (aka Griswold) Christmas Vacation in British Columbia. BC, Canada's westernmost province, is defined by its Pacific coastline and mountain ranges. The scenic Sea-to-Sky Highway (Highway 99) links Whistler with Vancouver at the southern U.S. border.
Rita and I extended our trip by spending two nights in Seattle, WA before driving to Canada. I flew into Seattle Wednesday morning and took the convenient light rail into town. Rita wouldn't arrive for a few hours, so I checked into the Marriott (thank you for the discount, Dad!) and set off to explore town.
Known for its gray and rainy winters, I lucked out with a rare sunny day. The temperature, however, seemed very cold from the coastal wind--having left Denver just before the first "deep freeze," my body had not yet been "shocked" by winter weather. I immediately took note that Seattlites are rarely seen without a cup of coffee in hand; on the contrary, nobody owns sunglasses.
Pioneer Square is Seattle’s original neighborhood dating back to 1852. The historical community has experienced many changes from natural disasters to the Gold Rush, political uprisings to urban renewals, and from pioneers to a melting pot of demographics and businesses. The beautiful Christmas decorations reminded me of my first visit to Boston, whereas the hills mirrored those of San Francisco.
The Sky View Observatory is located on the 73rd floor of Columbia Center. At nearly 1,000', it offers the tallest public viewing area in the Pacific Northwest.
On a clear day, the 360° panoramic view includes the Cascade Mountains (Mt. Rainier), the Olympic Mountains, Elliott Bay, and the Space Needle.
I eventually met Rita at a small joint in Pioneer Square, where we caught up over food and drinks. My favorite eateries in town included salad cafes, Sprout and Toss'd, as well as neighborhood market, Cone & Steiner.
Thursday was the winter solstice (the shortest day of the year). Rita and I walked to famous Pike Place Market, a vibrant neighborhood comprised of hundreds of farmers and artisans. In addition to preserving the historic character and supporting small businesses, the Market was chartered by the city to provide services for low-income individuals.
Let me start by saying that Pike Place Market is
huge. You could easily spend all day there and still not see everything. However, here are some of the highlights:
- The Public Market Center sign, installed in 1937
- The Gum Wall
- The original Starbucks
- Watch the fish toss at Pike Place Fish Co.
- Rub Rachel the Piggy Bank’s nose for good luck
That afternoon, Rita and I meandered along the waterfront.
We caught the commuter ferry from Pier 52 to Bainbridge Island. The 35-minute trip across Elliot Bay is the perfect way to view the Seattle skyline from the water.
The small island's main street is lined with quaint boutiques, eateries, and wineries.
In retrospect, I am very happy that Rita and I added Seattle onto our trip. My first impression of the Pacific Northwest was positive. I love the west-coast culture and its proximity to both ocean and mountains. My only issue is the overcast winters!
PEMBERTON
Friday morning, Rita and I picked up our rental monster truck and set off on the 2.5 hour drive north to Vancouver. The drive validated that Washington is appropriately named the Evergreen State. We briefly met our Aunt Judy en route, before continuing on to the Canadian border.
It was a cold, but sunny, afternoon in Vancouver, so Rita and I broke for lunch in town at the Cactus Club Cafe before driving another two hours north to Pemberton via the Sea to Sky Highway. We stopped for a chaotic yet necessary grocery run at Nesters Market in Whistler.
At last, we reunited with the crew in the Village of Pemberton (30 minutes north of Whistler in the Coast Mountains). Anna booked a mountain chalet on a secluded farm, complete with friendly barn animals. It was the perfect retreat to spend the holidays.
The Schallers were up first for family dinner #1.
Rita and I had planned to go ice climbing on Saturday, but the ice at the lower elevations (that do not require ski-in/ski-out ability) was not yet ready for the season. Instead, Rita went skiing with our dad, Anna and Alex. Whistler Blackcomb is a major ski resort that hosted the 2010 Winter Olympics (elevation 7,992').
I joined my mom and Alex's mother, sister and brother-in-law in Whistler Village. We milled around the quaint town, stopping in shops to warm up. Similar to Seattle, the climate was unusually cold during our stay. While the coastal proximity typically ensures moderate temperatures throughout the winter, I recorded nightly lows as frigid as -5° F.
After grabbing a healthy bite to eat at Naked Sprout, we joined the rest of the group for après drinks at the base of the mountain. Later that night was the Scott's turn to cook!
On Sunday, Rita, Mom, and I headed back to Whistler. There wasn't enough snow on the grounds around town to snowshoe, so we went for a wintry hike along the Blueberry Trail.
The relatively hidden trail is short and sweet, and offers spectacular views of Alta Lake. We enjoyed watching the skaters play hockey--O Canada!
Back in Whistler Village, our trio unthawed at Mount Currie Coffee before meeting the rest of the Schaller clan for après drinks at Hunter Gather. We attended Christmas Eve Mass at a small Native Canadian (First Nation) church outside Pemberton.
Christmas Day was spent together at "home." After breakfast, a few of us went for a walk around the farm.
The rest of the day was spent cooking, watching holiday movies, and playing board games.
VANCOUVER
We left the mountains on Tuesday and headed south to Vancouver, making two stops along the way. Dropping from 1,105', Shannon Falls is BC’s third highest waterfall. Around the base of the falls is a well-maintained trail network to explore the area’s towering trees.
My parents, Rita and I also stopped in small town Squamish to check out the Sea to Sky Gondola. A 10-minute gondola ride ends at the Summit Lodge for fantastic views of the bright blue water of Howe Sound, dotted with green islands and backed by the steep mountains of the Coast Range.
A popular spot for photos is the 328' Sky Pilot Suspension Bridge.
The area is also home to walking and hiking trails for all ages and abilities. Lovely Christmas decorations created a feeling of walking through a winter wonderland. There are events happening year-round at the Sea to Sky Gondola--a must-do for anyone visiting Vancouver or Whistler.
After our outdoor adventure, the four of us stopped for lunch at Zephyr Cafe in Squamish before finishing the journey to Vancouver. Vancouver is among Canada’s densest, most ethnically diverse cities. The bustling seaport is a popular filming location, and is surrounded by mountains. The rainy drive through Stanley Park was a stark contrast to the sunny afternoon that Rita and I experienced on our way up from Seattle.
A round at Steamworks Brewing Compay was followed by a group dinner at a nearby oyster bar. To my surprise, I devoured my veggie sushi roll. We eventually retired to the Hyatt (thank you, Aunt Judy!).
On Wednesday, Rita went fly fishing in Squamish while Anna, Alex and I took the tiny False Creek Ferry to Granville Island. We spent the next few hours grazing through the Public Market, which is smaller and more organized than Seattle's Pike Place Market.
We met my parents for a midday beer at Granville Island Brewing Company.
Back on the mainland, we walked through sophisticated district, Yaletown. We shared a beer at the Yaletown Brewing Company before splitting up.
I passed the afternoon exploring Vancouver's oldest neighborhood, Gastown. Victorian architecture houses a thriving fashion scene, boutiques and galleries, and some of the best culinary fare in the city.
That night, I met Rita and my parents at an Irish pub near the waterfront. My first impression of Vancouver is that it is dense, but modern and clean. Like Seattle, I appreciate its proximity to water and mountains.
After a long week together, we all went our separate ways on Thursday. Rita and I drove back to Seattle, where I caught the airport light rail for an afternoon flight back to Denver.
Looking back, this trip was a truly special way to spend Christmas. I am grateful for the opportunity to spend the season with loved ones in a unique place. After having taken so many short solo trips recently, I enjoyed the pleasure of experiencing new things in the company of others. When traveling--especially with others--it is vital to communicate, and to be flexible and open-minded when plans change.
My first visit to Canada confirmed that, despite its proximity to the U.S., it is very much its own country (i.e., Canadian dollars, metric system, accents). Given the short and cold days, I would be excited to return to explore more of Canada in the summertime!
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