Tuesday, July 17, 2018

4x14ers (Decalibron)

July in Colorado means only one thing to me: the official start of 14er season. I decided to kick it off in a big way with four in one day. Tucked in the Mosquito Range, Mt. Democrat, Mt. Cameron, Mt. Lincoln, and Mt. Bross (or "Decalibron") are often grouped into one hike. This Class 2 loop is popular for good reason--with an elevation gain of 3,700' over 7.25 miles, it's a big bang for your buck.

My friend, Ian, and I left Denver Tuesday afternoon and headed southwest on Highway 285. Two hours later, we cruised through the small town of Alma, turning off towards Kite Lake. At a lofty 12,000', the campground is neatly surrounded by the four massive peaks.

Left to right: Democrat, Cameron, Bross (Lincoln is behind Cameron)
Despite the recent wildfires spreading across the state (and resulting fire ban), we were able to build a small fire in a designated fire ring. The risk was relatively low as it had just rained, and for the fact that there was nothing around to catch fire at the high elevation.


We prepared a delicious, black bean vegan chili. It was the perfect meal for the cool mountain air (overnight lows in the 40s). With a planned early start in the morning, we ditched the tent idea and slept in the car. It was exciting to spend the night before a big hike at the trailhead vs. driving in the morning of. And the stars...


The alarm sounded far too early the next morning, yet Ian and I rallied to join my coworker, Tim, at the base of Bross--5am start. After researching several trip reports, we decided to reverse the traditional route (i.e., counter-clockwise) in order to avoid the final descent from Bross, which is notoriously covered with scree (loose rock).

View of Democrat across the basin from Bross

As the night sky gave way to a soft palette of morning light, the insomnia quickly melted into adrenaline and nervous excitement. Legally, Bross cannot be summited because the land is privately owned (though many people ignore this fact).


After a very steep climb, we reached the peak at 14,172'. The layers came back on here as the rising sun had yet to warm the brisk morning air.





Next, we followed the trail down to the saddle leading to the final pitch of Lincoln. The classic Martian-like terrain that ensued is characteristic of 14er territory.

View of Lincoln from Cameron


At 14,286', the small summit offered tremendous views--Pikes Peak to the south, the Maroon Bells to the west, Mt. of the Holy Cross and Quandary to the north, and Grays and Torreys to the east.






















A quick descent and ascent leads to the flat summit of Cameron at 14,238'. While not officially ranked (since the peak rises less than 300' above the Lincoln saddle), it is recognized on USGS maps.


Moving on, we dropped down to the next saddle towards Democrat, which is where the exhaustion set in.
Looking up to Cameron from Democrat saddle



After picking our way slowly across the rocky saddle, we made the final push to Democrat. As a way to pass the time, our happy trio played games and befriended fellow hikers.

View of Kite Lake basin from saddle
Just shy of the top is a false summit. The temperature had warmed up nicely, so we took a lunch break to devour our leftover chili. By this time, the trail had become relatively crowded.

View from Democrat: Cameron on left with Lincoln behind, Bross on right

At last, we were rewarded with arguably the best views of the day from Democrat: 14,148'.







Eventually, we began the final descent back to the rugged saddle and ultimately back to Kite Lake. We arrived just before 1pm for a total time of close to eight hours; doable, however, in six if you hustle. Back at the lake, we celebrated our epic hike with a couple of beers before returning to the 90-degree Denver heat. Now having hiked 11 of the Colorado 14ers, I can confidently admit that I am utterly enamored with the highs of mountaineering. Moreover, I am grateful for the good company of this journey as I begin to trade in some of my independence for community.

Looking up to Democrat

Thursday, July 12, 2018

Happy 4th!

Meanwhile in Denver, summer was in full swing. Two new additions to my usual routine include picking up climbing at the gym and signing up to volunteer at Luvin Arms Animal Sanctuary in Erie.























My Colorado brewery list has reached 75, thanks to recent visits to Crazy Mountain Brewing Company near Santa Fe and Joyride Brewing Company beside Sloan's Lake. I was also excited to participate in Wine and Cheese Night at Jake's house--all vegan and all delicious!


On the 4th of July, I joined Jake, Patrick, and Sarah for a morning of stand up paddle boarding on Lake Dillon. We were blessed with perfect weather, outstanding alpine scenery, and a peaceful lake. SUP is a hobby that I am eager to pick up in my next home.






Afterwards, my friends and I indulged at Piante Pizza in Breckenridge--my new favorite vegan pizzeria that uses local ingredients and provides excellent service in a laid back and cozy, rustic-chic environment. If only it weren't so far from Denver!




That night, Aspen and I watched the downtown fireworks from Anna and Alex's apartment. Happy Independence Day!

Portland, OR

As soon as I returned from Jackson, it was off to Portland in search of work and a place to live. Brand new to the city and without any contacts, I was grateful to stay with my mom's previous work colleague. Yafit and her family live in Beaverton, a beautiful suburb nestled west of town.


One of the main goals of my short visit was to get a feel for the layout of the city. Central Portland is divided into four or five quadrants (depending on who you talk to), each with its own unique vibe. The traditional west side refers to everything west of the Willamette River, while the eclectic east side is everything east of the river. Fortunately, the city has strong public transit infrastructure, including the MAX light rail, busses, and street cars. Portland is also extremely bike-friendly.


Southwest Portland includes downtown, Pioneer Courthouse Square (Portland’s "living room"), and several museums and concert halls. The area is also home to Portland State University, the Waterfront, and Washington Park. Oregon Health and Science University--where Yafit works--is perched atop heavily-wooded Marquam Hill, which overlooks downtown Portland.






Northwest Portland has some of the city’s most desirable neighborhoods, including the Pearl District and Nob Hill. The tree-lined streets of NW 21st and 23rd Avenues house quaint shops, boutiques, restaurants, and cafes that are built into old historic houses. This neighborhood is also near Forest Park, offering more than 5,000 acres of native forest and hiking trails.



















North Portland consists of residential, industrial, and commercial areas. “NoPo” contains some of the most up-and-coming neighborhoods, and is home to the University of Portland. N Mississippi Ave. is lined with trendy bars, restaurants, and food carts.



Northeast Portland embodies a diverse collection of neighborhoods with important landmarks like the convention center and airport. NE Alberta St. organizes an art walk on the final Thursday of every month each summer. You can also catch a movie or live show at one of the area’s historic theaters.



















Southeast Portland is famous for quirky streets like Belmont St., Hawthorne Blvd., and Division St. where there is no shortage of shopping, entertainment, and great local food--not to mention funky street art and colorful murals. Thriving small-businesses are abundant, especially in the food cart scene. At 190-acre Mt. Tabor Park, you can marvel at the downtown views from an extinct volcanic cinder cone.


My three-day trip to the City of Roses was a whirlwind. I quickly realized that my agenda was overly ambitious due to unforeseen logistical challenges. For example, it was difficult to navigate a large and unfamiliar city by public transportation, all the while maintaining a readiness to both network and explore. Needless to say, I was exhausted on my flight back to the Mile High City. Still, I reflect positively on my first impression of Portland, excited by the culture and overall vibes of my next potential home. I remain optimistic about expanding my newfound network and connections in the coming weeks.

Friday, July 6, 2018

Jackson, WY

At the end of June, Anna and I took a sister road trip to Jackson, Wyoming. The small town near the Idaho border is home to three major ski areas, including Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Jackson Hole is the name of the valley between the Teton Range and the Gros Ventre Range, through which threads the Snake River. Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) and Yellowstone National Park are located due north. Wildlife is plentiful in the surrounding region, not limited to moose, black/grizzly bears, bison, antelope, and bald eagles.

6/20/18-6/24/18
Day 1: Denver to Jackson
We set off shortly after noon on Wednesday, for a grueling but scenic 8.5 hour drive. The landscape gradually morphed from desert to alpine. After an impromptu stop at Wind River Brewing Company in Pinedale, we continued the rest of the way with a marvelous sunset backdrop against the looming mountains. We also saw our first moose! A mother and her baby were munching on foliage by a stream off the side of the road. At last, we pulled into our Airbnb condo in Teton Village, which lies at the base of the ski resort.


















Day 2: Jackson Hole
On Thursday, Anna and I booked a half-day Via Ferrata adventure. Originating in the European Alps, Via Ferrata is a mountain route equipped with steel cables, ladders, and other fixed anchors. The assisted climbing activity allows inexperienced climbers to hike on ledges, climb vertical walls, and reach mountain peaks.



















We took the Bridger Gondola from Teton Village to the "Deck," which offers spectacular views of the valley floor from 9,095'. There we met our guides, picked up our climbing gear, and set off to scale the granite walls.


I was initially nervous to "learn the ropes," but quickly got the hang of the technique. The basic idea is to continually move the carabiners attached to your harness along the next section of cable as you navigate the route, all the while using as little aid as possible.























The weather was absolutely idyllic. While June is the start of high season in Jackson, fear of rains and storms keep most crowds away until July and August.


One of the highlights of the adventure was crossing a 120' suspension bridge. Seeing as International Yoga Day coincided with the Summer Solstice, I saw fit to honor the practice with a (somewhat) graceful tree pose.





Our laidback and comical guides, Mash and Mike, made the experience truly memorable. Mash is a free-spirited Yosemite "stone monkey" that shares many of my passions and philosophies related to holistic living. Mike, by enormous coincidence, graduated from my high school just one year after I did! I was deeply inspired by the manner in which both Mash and Mike lead their lives, courageously leaping at various opportunities that present themselves.


Afterwards, Anna and I enjoyed a beer on the Deck in order to celebrate our mountaineering accomplishment.


From the Deck, we mustered our energy to hike the Cirque Trail--a steep 2-mile climb to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain.



En route, we gawked at legendary Corbet's Couloir--the most challenging ski chute in North America, attracting skiers from across the globe.



We treaded carefully on the upper part of the trail, which was still packed with snow.








Finally at 10,450', we were surrounded by the high peaks of the Southern Tetons.



Hikers that make it to the top of the mountain are rewarded not only by the views, but also with the option to take a free ride to the base on the Aerial Tram, descending 4,139' in just 12 minutes.



Later that evening, Anna and I made the 20-minute drive into Jackson. We strolled through the country-western shops surrounding Town Square--the bare slopes of Snow King Mountain Resort placed elegantly in the background--eventually refueling at Snake River Brewing and Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. On the longest day of the year, the sun did not set until well after 9pm. Though a great place for stargazing, Anna and I were never out late enough to take advantage!



Day 3: Grand Teton National Park
On Friday morning, Anna and I made our first journey along scenic Moose Wilson Road to GTNP. We arrived to the Jenny Lake District under cool and eery cloud coverage. The popular district allows access to some of the best hiking in the park. Our limbs were quite sore from the previous day's exertions, but we managed to complete the 8-mile hike around Jenny Lake.





The relatively mellow trail provided outstanding mountain views.




















Across the lake are Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point, which can also be reached by shuttle boat for those not wishing to hike.



Continuing on towards String Lake, we eventually completed the loop.



















We spent the afternoon exploring the park by car, driving first to the northernmost entrance--a mere miles south of Yellowstone. The magnificent mountains dominate the landscape of the park, as seen from Jackson Lake. Extending for 40 miles within the Rocky Mountains, the Teton Range began rising about 10 million years ago resulting from numerous earthquakes. The Grand Teton towers at 13,770'. Native populations originally called the range Teewinot, meaning "many pinnacles." Early 19th century French fur trappers then re-named the range Les Trois Tétons ("the three nipples") after the distinct breast-like shapes of its peaks. The rugged terrain and lack of foothills allures outdoor enthusiasts of all types.



Climbing 800', Signal Mountain Summit Road offers panoramic views of the Teton Range, Jackson Lake, and Jackson Hole valley.

  






We pulled off several times to witness the rapidly-changing weather patterns moving through the park. Also of note was a siting of two brown bears playing in the distance!



Across Highway 191 is Mormon Row, established by Mormon settlers in the 1890's. Photographers from around the world marvel at its historic structures, particularly the John Moulton Barn.






Back in Teton Village, Anna and I shared a delicious dinner at Spur, and drinks at The Handle Bar.








Day 4: Grand Teton National Park
Saturday was our second day at the park. Starting off on the right foot, we spotted another moose and her baby next to a pond.


Luckily, we had a number of hikes to choose from. According to the park rangers, however, the route to pristine Delta Lake was currently covered in snow and ice. Also of interest was the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve located at the southern end of the park. Here a network of trails leads to Phelps Lake, providing an opportunity to connect with nature in an environment designed to reduce congestion.




Ultimately, though, we opted for the more highly-trafficked Taggart Lake-Bradley Lake duo: a moderately difficult 6-mile loop that visits two lakes dammed by glacial moraines. The scenery was superb, nicely complementing the terrain of our hike the day before.

  









Just as we returned to the trailhead, a sudden storm front moved in, canceling our potential afternoon on the water.


Nevertheless, on the way out of the park, we got up close and personal with a male moose! Both exhausted, we called it a night after dinner at Teton Village's Mangy Moose.



Day 5: Jackson to Denver
Anna and I hit the road early on Sunday, stopping first at famous Pearl St. Bagels on our way out of town.



I feel incredibly grateful to have had the opportunity to visit Wyoming during my time in Colorado. Despite my many adventures in the Colorado Rockies, there is something extra special about the Grand Tetons that inspire a unique sense of wonder. I would be excited to return to explore more of the area, including Yellowstone.