An hour and a half later, I reached the small town of Ouray. "The Switzerland of America" is nestled in a valley at 7,792', surrounded on three sides with 13,000' snowcapped peaks. The hostel in town is where I spent the next four nights.
With the rest of the day ahead of me, I stopped by the Ouray Visitor Center to pick out a hike at lower elevation (with less snow and ice) for the following day. If I couldn't manage to make it Blue Lakes, hiking 14er Handies Peak was certainly ruled out.
The San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway travels a 236-mile loop through southwest Colorado from Ouray to Ridgway, Telluride, through Dolores, Cortez and Durango, and back along Highway 550 to Silverton and Ouray.
After navigating 23 miles of steep cliffs, narrow lanes, and hairpin curves, I made it over Red Mountain Pass to the tiny town of Silverton. Rain and clouds created the perfect excuse to cross off another brewery: Avalanche Brewing Company (#52).
10 miles north of Ouray is a quick--and easier--drive to small town Ridgway. I found Ridgway to be one of the friendliest towns on my journey. The local crew at Colorado Boy Brewing Company (#53) welcomed me in as one of their own.
DAY 5: OURAY
Sutton Mine Trail to Neosho Mine became the new plan for Thursday. This 4-mile out-and-back leaves from town and climbs 1,000' to a 9,000' shelf perched in the cliffs above the Uncompahgre River. Groves of pine and aspen open at the overlook to reveal two miles of commanding views into Ouray’s narrow river valley.
I continued on toward Abrams Mountain, eventually reaching another overlook of Bear Creek Falls and the gorge. Bear tracks were spotted along the trail, which as I later learned, have apparently become a menace in town.
I turned back after reaching the remains of the mines near Neosho Mill.
After showering at Ouray Hot Springs, I grabbed some grub downtown at Maggie's Kitchen, and later hit up Ouray Brewery and Ourayle House Brewery (#54 and #55). Mouse's Chocolates & Coffee for dessert!
The Jud Wiebe Trail is a 3-mile loop that leaves from town and ascends 1,300' through aspen groves to a panoramic overlook of Telluride. It was my favorite hike of the trip, and one of the best in my hiking history.
That afternoon, I explored downtown and the local Farmer's Market. During its mining days, the "City of Lights" claimed to have been the first town in the world to have electric street lights.
The gondola is the preferred (and free) method of transportation between historic Telluride and resort town, Mountain Village. The 13-minute ride, with an optional stop at San Sophia Station, offers 360-degree views of alpine greatness.
Sitting high at 9,545', Mountain Village is equipped with all of the modern fixes that you would expect of an upscale ski resort. I enjoyed sitting in the sunshine, imagining how the village would come alive in Winter.
Before leaving town, I made a few important stops: Telluride Truffle, Smuggler's Brewpub, and Telluride Brewing Co. (#56 and #57).
Due to its influx of wealth, I doubt that Telluride is a place that I would ever live (or fit in). However, I liked it much more that I had initially suspected. Without doubt, I will be back.
DAY 7: MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK
Finally leaving my home base in Ouray, I drove two hours south (past Silverton) to Durango. A popular mode of transportation between Silverton and Durango is the railroad train.
Lots of low-hanging clouds created an eery morning drive.
Rain and thick clouds gradually set in, obscuring the remainder of the route from view.
In Durango at last, I stopped by the downtown Farmer's Market and Visitor Center to learn that Mesa Verde National Park happened to be granting free entrance for National Public Lands Day... off I went!
45 minutes west of Durango, Mesa Verde National Park offers a spectacular look into the lives of the Ancestral Pueblo people who settled there from 600 to 1300. The park preserves hundreds of elaborate stone communities that were built in the alcoves of the canyon walls.
From the beautiful Visitor Center, I drove the winding road to Park Point Overlook--the highest point at 8,572'. The desert-like surroundings reminded me of those at the Colorado National Monument... and Arizona/New Mexico.
I continued on, stopping at overlooks, walking trails, and notable cliff dwellings Cliff Palace and Balcony House.
I recommend spending at least half a day at the park (the drive from start to finish is two hours alone), and signing up for tours of the cliff dwellings if interested in learning more history.
Back in Durango, I ate at Grassburger and drank at Steamworks Brewing Co. and Brew Pub (#58 and #59). I stayed with a fun young couple, David and Kelsey, in a beautiful old farmhouse on the Animas River. It was the perfect blend of private yet central, with only a two-mile walk into town along the River Trail. And, happy farm animals were lovely company!
DAY 8: DURANGO
At the recommendation of my hosts, I hiked to Castle Rock on Sunday via the Elbert Creek Trail. The trailhead can be found along Highway 550, 30 minutes north of Durango (just before Purgatory Ski Resort).
The out-and-back trail rises 1,650' over 5.5 miles. The first half of the trail climbs the Hermosa Cliffs via switchbacks through glowing aspen trees.
After passing an old ranching cabin, the final stretch ascends the hillside through forested pines.
At 10,441', the top of the cliffs reveal outstanding views of the Animas Valley and Electra Lake to the south. Low-hanging clouds made for an unusual--but pretty--panorama.
Continuing along the ridge, the sweeping San Juan skyline appeared unexpectedly.
I was the first to summit that day, but many followed after me; not the first time that I found the golden rule of hiking early to be out of place outside Denver. This was a dazzling fall hike, which I would be eager to do again--especially on a clear day.
Back in town, I toured Fort Lewis College, admiring the outstanding views of Durango from Rim Drive. Although slightly farther from the mountains, Durango is a good-sized town with a down-to-earth community, tree-lined neighborhoods, and excellent breweries.
My last night in town ended at Zia Taqueria and Animas Brewing (#60).
DAY 9: THE SAN LUIS VALLEY
A morning jog on the Animas River and then I set off east-bound on US 160. Living in Denver, heading east usually carries a negative connotation for me as it is consistent with leaving the mountains. Being this far west, however, meant that I had a few more mountain ranges to cross first.
Chimney Rock National Monument had just closed for the year, but the ruins could be seen from the highway. Next up, Pagosa Springs--just an hour east of Durango. Located in the San Juan National Forest, the town is famous for its hot springs. I stretched my legs on the San Juan River Walk and lunched at Riff Raff Brewing Company (#61).
From there, I continued East over Wolf Creek Pass at 10,856'.
Within the two-hour drive to Alamosa, the landscape had radically transformed yet again as I entered the San Luis Valley--an enormous, sun-baked flat between the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the San Juan foothills.
Being surrounded by mountains made for a marvelous sunset.
I spent a cozy night at Wendy's Lucky Dog Lodge.
DAY 10: GREAT SAND DUNES NATIONAL PARK
Sunrise in the San Luis Valley was just as intriguing as sunset. One minute the huge valley was dark, the next it was brightly lit up, as if someone had flipped a switch.
Los Caminos Antiguos Scenic Byway leads to the Great Sand Dunes National Park. Three miles south of the park entrance is secluded Zapata Falls, created by snowmelt from the Sangre de Cristos. The parking lot alone is worth the visit; views of the dunes are breathtaking against the base of the Sangre de Cristos to the north. Straight west across the valley are the sharp volcanic domes of the San Juans.
The trail to the falls is an easy half-mile hike, but you must cross the creek to gain the best views of the waterfall. It is tucked back in a tunnel in the rock where the water funnels 30' down from the creek above. In the chilly October morning, I opted out of this final hurdle.
The tallest sand dunes in North America are centered among a diverse landscape of grasslands, wetlands, conifer and aspen forests, alpine lakes, and tundra. More than a thousand miles from the nearest beach, these drifting dunes accumulated as wind swept sand against the west face of the Sangre de Cristos.
At the base of the dunes, Medano Creek is a seasonal stream that typically peaks in June. Water surges as mounds of sand form and fall in the creek bed, similar to waves at a beach.
Visitors are free to "hike" any area of the dunefield they wish, though encouraged to start early as the sun heats the surface of the sand as the day goes on. Wind is also an important factor to consider.
Hiking through the dunes is fun, but challenging. Every step forward equates to two steps back. I found it easier to zigzag up the ridgelines to gain elevation. My trekking poles were also a game changer.
After having my fill of sand (and having it all over me), it was finally time to head back to the Front Range--a four-hour journey north through Pueblo and Colorado Springs.
Gratitude is the first thought that comes to mind when reflecting on my Colorado road trip. I now have a deeper appreciation of the state, and a better understanding of the varied towns and landscapes. Each area has something unique to offer, and I would jump on the opportunity to build upon my first impressions. While I confirmed that the San Juan Mountains are the most spectacular range in Colorado, it is difficult to pick a favorite place. Nevertheless, among the top would likely be Crested Butte, Telluride, Ridgway, Fort Collins, and Evergreen.
Doing it alone had its pros and cons. It was refreshing to drop off the grid for a few days. Plus, the quiet off-season allowed me to meet some really interesting locals. Nevertheless, that first glimpse of the Denver skyline felt like coming home.
