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| 9/24-10/3 |
Leaving my little commuter car behind, I set off in a rental VW Tiguan around noon on Sunday. West-bound on I-70, I was pleased to see that fall (and a little winter?) had arrived in the mountains.
After two hours of driving, I stopped for lunch at a deli in Avon, gateway to Beaver Creek Resort.
DAY 2: PALISADE
The one-mile hike follows a steep and rocky trail, crossing seven bridges and climbing 1,000' from the bottom of Glenwood Canyon up through Deadhorse Creek Canyon. Switchbacks accommodate the rise in elevation.
An hour later, I made it to Glenwood Springs. The major bridge downtown is currently under construction (and apparently has been for a few years). I stopped for a drink at Glenwood Canyon Brewing Company--#50 on my Colorado brewery list. That night, I stayed just outside of town with friendly couple, Bob and Wendy.
DAY 2: PALISADE
Monday began with an early morning hike to Hanging Lake. This popular destination sees 100,000 visitors a year. Overcrowding and vandalism has warranted recent closures to repair and protect the area.
Hanging Lake was formed by a geologic fault that caused the lake bed to drop away from the valley floor above. Turquoise water flows into the lake over Bridal Veil Falls. There is a short offshoot from the trail before the lake that leads to Spouting Rock, where water has dissolved a passage through the limestone to exit out of a cliff wall as a spectacular waterfall.
On a Monday morning in late September, crowds were not an issue; timing is everything.
An hour west landed me in the heart of Palisade--Colorado's peach and wine capital. It is located in Mesa County, named appropriately I thought, as the mountainous landscape had quickly morphed into desert cliffs. The weather was idyllic--sunny and 75.
I paid a visit to Palisade Brewing Company (#51 and a favorite). From there, rather than jumping straight onto the Fruit and Wine Trail, I chose a winery off the beaten path. Originally from Durango, Ken is the owner of Hermosa Vineyards. We chatted for a good part of the afternoon, where I sampled his selection while learning of his nomadic journey around the world and ultimate return to Colorado. His goal is to be one of the best wineries vs. one of the biggest. As the day grew later, I admitted that I wanted to visit another winery before closing at 5pm; Ken dutifully directed me to Mesa Park Vineyards, Colterris at the Overlook, and Red Fox Cellars.
Although peach season had just ended, a local orchard won me over with juicy elephant heart plums. I stayed at Penny's house in town, and left Palisade with a pound of fresh fruit and four bottles of red.
DAY 3: THE COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT
Wednesday morning, I drove 45 minutes west of Palisade, between Grand Junction and the Utah border. Named after the river rather than the state, the Colorado National Monument is an impressive (and seemingly under-rated) area of eroded red rock formations and canyons. It is a semi-desert land of pinyon pines and junipers that is home to wildlife like ravens, bighorn sheep, and coyotes.
Wednesday morning, I drove 45 minutes west of Palisade, between Grand Junction and the Utah border. Named after the river rather than the state, the Colorado National Monument is an impressive (and seemingly under-rated) area of eroded red rock formations and canyons. It is a semi-desert land of pinyon pines and junipers that is home to wildlife like ravens, bighorn sheep, and coyotes.
I quickly realized that the Visitor Center was at the opposite park entrance from where I had entered, so I set off on the winding 23-mile Rim Rock Drive atop the Colorado Plateau. Magnificent views stretched from the colorful canyons and rock sculptures to the Colorado River Valley, the purple-gray Book Cliffs, and the world's largest flat-topped mountain, Grand Mesa.
I stopped at several scenic and short hike overlooks including Otto's Trail, Canyon Rim Trail, and Window Rock Trail.
The morning sky canvas allowed me to take some of the best photos of the trip.
I reached the other end of the park after a few hours, vowing to return again to try some longer hikes through the canyon. For now, though, I tracked back east to reach the Grand Mesa Scenic Byway. Starting in Mesa, the 63-mile road travels south along Highway 65 through Grand Mesa, Gunnison, and Uncompahgre National Forests to end in Cedaredge.
The byway travels through various scenery changes: desert canyon, aspen foothills, lakes, alpine forests, and the Powderhorn Ski Area.
At the top of the mesa, Land's End Road leads to an observatory where you can look down 6,000' to the bottom of the canyon and take in views as far as the Sneffels Range near Ridgway.
I continued south, anticipation building as the rugged San Juan Mountain Range crept closer. This part of the trip was what I had been looking forward to most. Finally time to honor that tattoo on my foot!
An hour and a half later, I reached the small town of Ouray. "The Switzerland of America" is nestled in a valley at 7,792', surrounded on three sides with 13,000' snowcapped peaks. The hostel in town is where I spent the next four nights.
DAY 4: RIDGWAY & SILVERTON
Ouray is the perfect basecamp for exploring southwest Colorado. It is within an hour's drive of Ridgway, Telluride, and Silverton. Two hikes in the area had immediately caught my attention, the first being Blue Lakes--a strenuous 8-mile hike. The trailhead is located off Highway 62 between Ridgway and Telluride.
I set off in the cool morning air at 9,350'. The trail climbed steadily up the valley between 14er Mt. Sneffels and 13er Wolcott Mountain.
Unfortunately for me, the mountains had recently received a dumping of snow a bit early in the season. Snow and ice covered the path as I drew closer to the lower lake at 10,980'. Considering that there was no one else around and still not confident in my damaged knees, I ultimately decided to turn around. Although disappointed, I knew that I was neither prepared nor equipped to continue forward alone, and that it would be foolish to try. Next time.
With the rest of the day ahead of me, I stopped by the Ouray Visitor Center to pick out a hike at lower elevation (with less snow and ice) for the following day. If I couldn't manage to make it Blue Lakes, hiking 14er Handies Peak was certainly ruled out.
The San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway travels a 236-mile loop through southwest Colorado from Ouray to Ridgway, Telluride, through Dolores, Cortez and Durango, and back along Highway 550 to Silverton and Ouray.
I completed part of this byway that afternoon, heading first to Silverton--a 45-minute drive south of Ouray along the "Million Dollar Highway."
After navigating 23 miles of steep cliffs, narrow lanes, and hairpin curves, I made it over Red Mountain Pass to the tiny town of Silverton. Rain and clouds created the perfect excuse to cross off another brewery: Avalanche Brewing Company (#52).
10 miles north of Ouray is a quick--and easier--drive to small town Ridgway. I found Ridgway to be one of the friendliest towns on my journey. The local crew at Colorado Boy Brewing Company (#53) welcomed me in as one of their own.
DAY 5: OURAY
Sutton Mine Trail to Neosho Mine became the new plan for Thursday. This 4-mile out-and-back leaves from town and climbs 1,000' to a 9,000' shelf perched in the cliffs above the Uncompahgre River. Groves of pine and aspen open at the overlook to reveal two miles of commanding views into Ouray’s narrow river valley.
I continued on toward Abrams Mountain, eventually reaching another overlook of Bear Creek Falls and the gorge. Bear tracks were spotted along the trail, which as I later learned, have apparently become a menace in town.
I continued on toward Abrams Mountain, eventually reaching another overlook of Bear Creek Falls and the gorge. Bear tracks were spotted along the trail, which as I later learned, have apparently become a menace in town.
I turned back after reaching the remains of the mines near Neosho Mill.
After showering at Ouray Hot Springs, I grabbed some grub downtown at Maggie's Kitchen, and later hit up Ouray Brewery and Ourayle House Brewery (#54 and #55). Mouse's Chocolates & Coffee for dessert!
DAY 6: TELLURIDE
Telluride is an hour west of Ouray--another scenic drive, of course. In fact, a herd of professional photographers were lined up to photograph the picturesque San Juan Mountains at sunrise.
Isolated in a box canyon surrounded by 13,000' peaks, this ski and festival town possesses a pristine beauty unlike any other. I began my day trip with a hike, enjoying the cool and cloudy Fall weather.
The Jud Wiebe Trail is a 3-mile loop that leaves from town and ascends 1,300' through aspen groves to a panoramic overlook of Telluride. It was my favorite hike of the trip, and one of the best in my hiking history.
That afternoon, I explored downtown and the local Farmer's Market. During its mining days, the "City of Lights" claimed to have been the first town in the world to have electric street lights.
The gondola is the preferred (and free) method of transportation between historic Telluride and resort town, Mountain Village. The 13-minute ride, with an optional stop at San Sophia Station, offers 360-degree views of alpine greatness.
Sitting high at 9,545', Mountain Village is equipped with all of the modern fixes that you would expect of an upscale ski resort. I enjoyed sitting in the sunshine, imagining how the village would come alive in Winter.
Before leaving town, I made a few important stops: Telluride Truffle, Smuggler's Brewpub, and Telluride Brewing Co. (#56 and #57).
Due to its influx of wealth, I doubt that Telluride is a place that I would ever live (or fit in). However, I liked it much more that I had initially suspected. Without doubt, I will be back.
DAY 7: MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK
Finally leaving my home base in Ouray, I drove two hours south (past Silverton) to Durango. A popular mode of transportation between Silverton and Durango is the railroad train.
Lots of low-hanging clouds created an eery morning drive.
Rain and thick clouds gradually set in, obscuring the remainder of the route from view.
In Durango at last, I stopped by the downtown Farmer's Market and Visitor Center to learn that Mesa Verde National Park happened to be granting free entrance for National Public Lands Day... off I went!
45 minutes west of Durango, Mesa Verde National Park offers a spectacular look into the lives of the Ancestral Pueblo people who settled there from 600 to 1300. The park preserves hundreds of elaborate stone communities that were built in the alcoves of the canyon walls.
From the beautiful Visitor Center, I drove the winding road to Park Point Overlook--the highest point at 8,572'. The desert-like surroundings reminded me of those at the Colorado National Monument... and Arizona/New Mexico.
I continued on, stopping at overlooks, walking trails, and notable cliff dwellings Cliff Palace and Balcony House.
I recommend spending at least half a day at the park (the drive from start to finish is two hours alone), and signing up for tours of the cliff dwellings if interested in learning more history.
Back in Durango, I ate at Grassburger and drank at Steamworks Brewing Co. and Brew Pub (#58 and #59). I stayed with a fun young couple, David and Kelsey, in a beautiful old farmhouse on the Animas River. It was the perfect blend of private yet central, with only a two-mile walk into town along the River Trail. And, happy farm animals were lovely company!
DAY 8: DURANGO
At the recommendation of my hosts, I hiked to Castle Rock on Sunday via the Elbert Creek Trail. The trailhead can be found along Highway 550, 30 minutes north of Durango (just before Purgatory Ski Resort).
The out-and-back trail rises 1,650' over 5.5 miles. The first half of the trail climbs the Hermosa Cliffs via switchbacks through glowing aspen trees.
After passing an old ranching cabin, the final stretch ascends the hillside through forested pines.
At 10,441', the top of the cliffs reveal outstanding views of the Animas Valley and Electra Lake to the south. Low-hanging clouds made for an unusual--but pretty--panorama.
Continuing along the ridge, the sweeping San Juan skyline appeared unexpectedly.
I was the first to summit that day, but many followed after me; not the first time that I found the golden rule of hiking early to be out of place outside Denver. This was a dazzling fall hike, which I would be eager to do again--especially on a clear day.
Back in town, I toured Fort Lewis College, admiring the outstanding views of Durango from Rim Drive. Although slightly farther from the mountains, Durango is a good-sized town with a down-to-earth community, tree-lined neighborhoods, and excellent breweries.
My last night in town ended at Zia Taqueria and Animas Brewing (#60).
DAY 9: THE SAN LUIS VALLEY
A morning jog on the Animas River and then I set off east-bound on US 160. Living in Denver, heading east usually carries a negative connotation for me as it is consistent with leaving the mountains. Being this far west, however, meant that I had a few more mountain ranges to cross first.
Chimney Rock National Monument had just closed for the year, but the ruins could be seen from the highway. Next up, Pagosa Springs--just an hour east of Durango. Located in the San Juan National Forest, the town is famous for its hot springs. I stretched my legs on the San Juan River Walk and lunched at Riff Raff Brewing Company (#61).
From there, I continued East over Wolf Creek Pass at 10,856'.
Within the two-hour drive to Alamosa, the landscape had radically transformed yet again as I entered the San Luis Valley--an enormous, sun-baked flat between the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the San Juan foothills.
I spent a cozy night at Wendy's Lucky Dog Lodge.
DAY 10: GREAT SAND DUNES NATIONAL PARK
Sunrise in the San Luis Valley was just as intriguing as sunset. One minute the huge valley was dark, the next it was brightly lit up, as if someone had flipped a switch.
Los Caminos Antiguos Scenic Byway leads to the Great Sand Dunes National Park. Three miles south of the park entrance is secluded Zapata Falls, created by snowmelt from the Sangre de Cristos. The parking lot alone is worth the visit; views of the dunes are breathtaking against the base of the Sangre de Cristos to the north. Straight west across the valley are the sharp volcanic domes of the San Juans.
The trail to the falls is an easy half-mile hike, but you must cross the creek to gain the best views of the waterfall. It is tucked back in a tunnel in the rock where the water funnels 30' down from the creek above. In the chilly October morning, I opted out of this final hurdle.
A morning jog on the Animas River and then I set off east-bound on US 160. Living in Denver, heading east usually carries a negative connotation for me as it is consistent with leaving the mountains. Being this far west, however, meant that I had a few more mountain ranges to cross first.
Chimney Rock National Monument had just closed for the year, but the ruins could be seen from the highway. Next up, Pagosa Springs--just an hour east of Durango. Located in the San Juan National Forest, the town is famous for its hot springs. I stretched my legs on the San Juan River Walk and lunched at Riff Raff Brewing Company (#61).
From there, I continued East over Wolf Creek Pass at 10,856'.
Within the two-hour drive to Alamosa, the landscape had radically transformed yet again as I entered the San Luis Valley--an enormous, sun-baked flat between the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the San Juan foothills.
Being surrounded by mountains made for a marvelous sunset.
I spent a cozy night at Wendy's Lucky Dog Lodge.
DAY 10: GREAT SAND DUNES NATIONAL PARK
Sunrise in the San Luis Valley was just as intriguing as sunset. One minute the huge valley was dark, the next it was brightly lit up, as if someone had flipped a switch.
Los Caminos Antiguos Scenic Byway leads to the Great Sand Dunes National Park. Three miles south of the park entrance is secluded Zapata Falls, created by snowmelt from the Sangre de Cristos. The parking lot alone is worth the visit; views of the dunes are breathtaking against the base of the Sangre de Cristos to the north. Straight west across the valley are the sharp volcanic domes of the San Juans.
The trail to the falls is an easy half-mile hike, but you must cross the creek to gain the best views of the waterfall. It is tucked back in a tunnel in the rock where the water funnels 30' down from the creek above. In the chilly October morning, I opted out of this final hurdle.
The tallest sand dunes in North America are centered among a diverse landscape of grasslands, wetlands, conifer and aspen forests, alpine lakes, and tundra. More than a thousand miles from the nearest beach, these drifting dunes accumulated as wind swept sand against the west face of the Sangre de Cristos.
At the base of the dunes, Medano Creek is a seasonal stream that typically peaks in June. Water surges as mounds of sand form and fall in the creek bed, similar to waves at a beach.
Visitors are free to "hike" any area of the dunefield they wish, though encouraged to start early as the sun heats the surface of the sand as the day goes on. Wind is also an important factor to consider.
Hiking through the dunes is fun, but challenging. Every step forward equates to two steps back. I found it easier to zigzag up the ridgelines to gain elevation. My trekking poles were also a game changer.
At 700', the "High Dune" on the first ridge is not actually the highest in elevation, but it looks that way from the parking lot. This is the most common destination, providing a great view of the dunefield. I started heading in that general direction, but quickly lost sight of it as I started moving around. It seemed like a mirage. I quickly realized that everyone else was just as confused as I was, so I just kept going!
Many people were sand-sledding on snowboards or cardboard boxes, and some were building sandcastles. It was a strange feeling to be simultaneously at the beach and the mountains.
After having my fill of sand (and having it all over me), it was finally time to head back to the Front Range--a four-hour journey north through Pueblo and Colorado Springs.
Doing it alone had its pros and cons. It was refreshing to drop off the grid for a few days. Plus, the quiet off-season allowed me to meet some really interesting locals. Nevertheless, that first glimpse of the Denver skyline felt like coming home.
