Day 1: Concord
I landed in San Francisco on Sunday morning, and used the Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) train to travel about an hour and a half northeast towards Concord. There I met Uncle Joe and Aunt Sue, who had hosted my mom for the weekend.
The four of us met my cousin, Jeremy, and his wife, Tristanne, for a delicious brunch at Denica's Real Food Kitchen. It was great to catch up after spending so much time apart!
Afterwards, we returned to my aunt and uncle's house, conveniently located in the same wonderful neighborhood as Jeremy and Tristanne.
That afternoon, my mom and I set off for wine country (about 40 minutes north). Nestled among the rolling, vine-draped hills at the southern end of Napa Valley, Vino Bello Resort exudes luxury with a swimming pool, spa, daytime cafe, lounge, restaurant and bar. My favorite part, however, was the vineyard trail that climbed up and around the picturesque property.
Mom and I treated ourselves to dinner at the resort restaurant, Siena, toasting to the week ahead with our first of many Napa wines.
Day 2: Westwood Hills Park
On Monday, my mom and I stretched our legs for a short but steep hike at Westwood Hills Park. The small park provides three miles of trails through glorious groves of oak trees and grassy meadows, and affords expansive views of the city. The main trail goes straight uphill to the top, while several unmarked trails shoot off to suggest hikes of varying difficulty. Despite being at sea level, I still managed to work up a sweat!
It was a hot day, though the week gradually grew cooler (highs were generally around 70, lows in the 40s). Napa Valley is blessed with several varying microclimates, which allows for the growth of a wide range of wine grape varietals.
Spring brings bud break to the vines, and the valley is scattered with new blossoms and lush, emerald green mountainsides from the winter rains. Summer is when the grapes really start to grow and harvest begins. Fall is peak tourist season, corresponding with the fragrance of "crush." Winter can be one of the most attractive seasons, with rows of brilliant yellow mustard inspiring Cabernet Season.
Day 3: Yountville
Mom and I headed back to town on Tuesday morning to rent bikes for the day. Founded in 2008, the the Vine Trail Coalition envisioned the Napa Valley Vine Trail--a 47-mile, walking/biking trail system connecting the entire Napa Valley from Vallejo to Calistoga. Currently completed is 12.5 continuous miles from South Napa to Yountville.
Though the trail requires several street crossings near downtown Napa, it is a fun alternative to driving (and avoiding traffic). State Highway 29 is paralleled only by the Silverado Trail--a scenic two-lane country road, snuggled up against the valley’s eastern hills.
The quaint town of Yountville was love at first sight. Quite hungry, we immediately refueled at R + D Kitchen.
We then sauntered down the main street, popping into Jessup Cellars gallery for a wine tasting, followed by the famous Bouchon Bakery.
Reluctant to leave, we knew that we faced a daunting 10-mile ride (against the wind), and were weighed down by bread and wine. Nevertheless, we eventually made it back in time for another stunning sunset.
Day 4: Sonoma
I went for a jog on Wednesday in the cool and foggy morning air.
Afterwards, Mom and I set off for Sonoma--a pretty, 20-minute drive west. The historic town is known for its art galleries and the colonial-era plaza. Surrounding the colorful plaza are 19th-century adobe buildings including Mission San Francisco Solano and the Sonoma Barracks, once used by the Mexican military.
Our final stop was Sonoma Black Bear Diner. To our delight, bears are a common theme throughout town in honor of California's original Grizzly Bear Flag, which was first raised in Sonoma in 1846.
That evening, we picked up Anna from the Oakland airport--the birthday bears united at last!
Day 5: St. Helena
Thursday was a full day of wine tasting in the St. Helena region. Tucked in the upvalley hills, St. Helena is the welcoming heart of Napa Valley. Home to the Culinary Institute of America, the town leads food and wine trends in the valley and beyond.
Located off the beaten path, Tres Sabores (Spanish for "three flavors") is a small, certified organic ranch that allows the terroir of the Rutherford Bench to create a pure expression of the varietals. Winemaker and owner, Julie Johnson, shows true passion for the art. While we missed the chance to make her acquaintance, we did chat with her amicable husband, Jon, who was hard at work on the ranch.
Located off the beaten path, Tres Sabores (Spanish for "three flavors") is a small, certified organic ranch that allows the terroir of the Rutherford Bench to create a pure expression of the varietals. Winemaker and owner, Julie Johnson, shows true passion for the art. While we missed the chance to make her acquaintance, we did chat with her amicable husband, Jon, who was hard at work on the ranch.
More often than not, there are more dogs than people on the ranch. The friendly family of golden retrievers are named after various aspects of the wine world.
Anna, Mom, and I were equally impressed by the genuine and transparent tour of Tres Sabores. The Spanish and environmental themes resonated with me especially. In addition, I value the sincerity and intimacy of smaller operations like these. The experience was without doubt a highlight of the trip.
After a twisting 20-minute drive up Spring Mountain, we arrived at our next destination: Pride Mountain Vineyards. Located along the crest of the Mayacamas Mountain Range at an elevation of 2,100', the vineyard delivers a highly educational tour. Perched above the morning fog that blankets the valley, the vines are bathed in sunshine from dawn to dusk. In addition, the temperature at the estate is cooler, which protects the natural acidity of the grapes. The daily temperature fluctuations are also smaller, which results in gradual, steady ripening.
The 235-acre property is bisected by the Napa/Sonoma county line. Government regulations mandate that the vineyard have two separate facilities (one in each county), with the division down the center of the crush pad. Wines are, thus, designated with the county, or with percentages of both.
Back on the valley floor, we grabbed lunch at Gillwoods Cafe before heading to our final appointment of the day at Ehlers Estate. We thoroughly enjoyed the tasting presentation inside the estate's original stone barn, which is furnished with an eclectic decor.
Bernard Ehlers bought the property in the late 1800s, and transformed it into a thriving vineyard and estate. A century later, French philanthropists, Jean and Sylviane Leducq, became the current owners. The couple express a passion for creating sophisticated wines with an old-world charm that capture the character and heritage of the land.
At the top of Napa Valley, Calistoga embodies the rustic charm of a 19th-century western town. We stopped here before dinner at classic American restaurant, Market.
Day 6: Redwoods
Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve is home to stately and magnificent Sequoia sempervirens, commonly known as the "coast redwood." Coast redwoods--the tallest living thing on our planet--are classified as temperate rainforests that require wet and mild climates to survive.
On Friday, the three of us drove about an hour and a half northwest of Napa to experience this majestic and peaceful place. Though small in size (yet uncrowded), several hiking opportunities abound at the reserve. We opted for the Pioneer Nature Trail, an easy 1.5 mile stroll through the grove.
The Parson Jones Tree is the tallest tree in the grove, measuring more than 310' (longer than a football field). The Colonel Armstrong Tree is the oldest tree, estimated to be over 1,400 years old. It is named after a lumberman who preserved the park in the 1870s.
On our way back to Napa, we stopped for beer and grub at wildly popular Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa and lively Lagunitas Brewing Company in Petaluma.
Another perfect sunset that evening.
Day 7: Rutherford
Among Napa's famed Cabernets, those hailing from Rutherford have an especially passionate following. The unique soil in the area, once a riverbed, produces wines in which fruit and herb flavors are tinged with a mysterious, almost spicy element known as "Rutherford dust."
First on Saturday's agenda: Frog’s Leap Winery for a relaxed garden tasting. Despite a chilly morning drizzle, our trio happily strolled through the immaculate grounds while sampling four current vintages.
Owner and Winemaker, John Williams, has forty years of grape growing experience in the Napa Valley.
Next, we had lunch at Brix Restaurant and Gardens. The elegant French-inspired restaurant takes advantage of its 16 acres of gardens and vineyards with spectacular views of the Mayacamas mountains.
Our final tasting was at Rutherford Hill Winery. In 1972, the founders recognized that the climate and soil of the valley were well suited to Merlot and were among the first to pioneer what has become Napa's premier varietal.
That evening, we packed our bags and traveled back to Concord to stay the night with Uncle Joe and Aunt Sue. Dinner was at Boudin Cafe in Walnut Creek. Based in San Francisco, this bakery is famous for its sourdough bread. I was lucky enough later to take my uncle's Alfa Romeo, or "Alfie," out for a spin!
Day 8: Denver
Anna, Mom, and I said goodbye to Uncle Joe and Aunt Sue early Sunday morning as we drove to the Oakland airport. Then we said a prayer for the safe passage of our packed wine, and finally parted ways after a tearful goodbye. Two hours later, Anna and I landed in the Mile High City, instantly hit by a strong wave of sunshine and heat.
At a glance, Napa is true to its Californian roots--crowded, expensive, and spread out. Yet, the charming area is a desirable vacation destination for those in search of good weather, beautiful landscape, and exceptional wine. I wish I could say that I slid easily into vacation mode, but (for whatever reason) I seem to fare better with structure in my life. Still, I am extremely grateful for the time spent together and the memories made during our very special trip to Napa.
